Jester King El Cedro Review

Brewery: Jester King Craft Brewery | Beer: El Cedro
Style: Saison | ABV: 7.8% | IBUs: ~40
Serving Method: 750ml bottle poured into teku glass

El Cedro is another farmhouse Jester King release, this time featuring dry-hopping with Citra, aging on cedar spirals, and lots of brett character.

It is unfiltered, unpasteurized, and naturally carbonated through re-fermentation in the bottle with Brettanomyces. Tough to nail down an exact style, as always with the Jester King wilds/sours, but we're going with Saison again.

As for construction, the malt bill is two-row and wheat malt, with the hopping duties carried out with Columbus and Citra. As per usual, the fermentation is taken care of with farmhouse yeast and local native yeast and souring bacteria.

Here's how El Cedro is described by Jester King:

It combines tropical, fruity hop flavor and aroma with funky, barnyard yeast character and the unique flavor and aromatics of Spanish Cedar.

Well this all sounds fabulous, so let's get stuck in.

Appearance: A thoroughly-hazy golden body capped by two fingers of creamy white head that fades slowly, leaving brilliant lacing. Top marks.

Aroma: A mix of funky Brett, green and citrusy hops, tropical fruit, mild cedar, and a laid-back crackery malt body. A hint of booze once it has warmed.

Taste: Up front, a mix of rich barnyard Brett, tart citrus juice, tropical fruit, white pepper, green and strongly bitter hops, and mild cedar. Underneath, a wheat and pale malt backbone that grounds everything nicely. Just a little mild spice from the alcohol throughout. Lots of funk, citrus, green and herbal hops, cedar, and husky pale malt in the big finish.

Mouthfeel: Medium bodied and creamy with medium carbonation and a bone-dry finish. Very mild heat from alcohol.

Drinkability: Drinks much faster than the alcohol content would suggest, so watch out.

Verdict: El Cedro is a solid big Brett Saison with a nice cedar component blended in. It's very much a Jester King beer that fits right into the lineup. There are a lot of intense components here, but everything comes together nicely.

Grade: A- (4.3 out of 5 stars)

Note: These tasting notes are based on the 6th batch of this beer when fresh.

Review by Christopher Hunt

Jester King Das Wunderkind! Review

Brewery: Jester King Craft Brewery | Beer: Das Wunderkind!
Style: Saison | ABV: 5.0% | IBUs: ~30
Serving Method: 750ml bottle poured into tulip glass

Das Wunderkind! is a blend of Das Überkind and fresh, hoppy beer. The process of blending these types of beer together is called bière de coupage, and used to be quite standard.

When released, Jester King were very proud of the result, calling it "the best encapsulation of our brewing philosophy that we've released thus far" and that "it's brewed so that people who drink it will experience the "sense of place" or terroir of our brewery in the Texas Hill Country."

This kid is unfiltered, unpasteurized, and naturally conditioned. It can be a little hard to pin down the exact style with these beers, but Jester King refer to it as a "blended Saison", so Saison it is.

As for construction, the malt bill is two-row, wheat malt, amber malt and flaked oats with a hop bill of Goldings, Sorachi Ace, Nelson Sauvin and Falconer's Flight. Fermentation is handled by farmhouse yeast and native yeast and souring bacteria from the area.

Here's how the Wunderkind is described by Jester King:

Das Wunderkind is dry, highly attenuated, unspiced, tart, floral, and funky.

Sounds wudnerful, let's pop the top.

Appearance: A thoroughly hazy golden-straw body capped by a finger and a half of fluffy white head that fades slowly, leaving excellent lacing.

Aroma: A mix of barnyard funk, citrusy and green hops, golden and tropical fruit, and pale malt.

Taste: A similar mix of funk, green and herbal hops, orchard fruit, and a hint of white pepper all over a backbone of grainy pale malt. It's all very well balanced. Green and bitter hops, mild funk, and husky pale malt in the finish.

Mouthfeel: Light bodied and refreshing with medium carbonation and a lightly tart and dry finish.

Drinkability: Drinks easily for funk fans, quenching all the way, as you may expect given the style and alcohol content.

Verdict: Das Wunderkind! is a lovely, restrained, quaffable, and well balanced funky Saison. It goes back easily while never being boring thanks to its wealth of character, and is clearly a product of Jester King.

Grade: A- (4.2 out of 5 stars)

Note: These tasting notes are based on the 17th batch of this beer when fresh.

Review by Christopher Hunt

Jester King Das Überkind Review

Brewery: Jester King Craft Brewery | Beer: Das Überkind
Style: Saison | ABV: 6.0% | IBUs: ~15
Serving Method: 750ml bottle poured into tulip glass

One of Jester King's staple sours, Das Überkind serves as a base for the blended Das Wunderkind! as well as most of their fruit re-fermentation beers. It's also a pretty awesome beer in its own right.

It is unfiltered, unpasteurized, 100% oak barrel-aged for months. Jester King describe it as a "Vieille Saison" (or old Saison), so we're going with the trusty Saison label here.

As for construction, the malt bill is Pilsner, two-row, wheat malt, and Caramunich with a hop bill of Czech Saaz and East Kent Goldings. Fermentation is handled by farmhouse yeast and native yeast and souring bacteria from the area.

Here's how zee Überkind is pitched:

All of the time and steps that went into making Das Überkind result in an “old” beer that’s fruity, funky, and sour, with undertones of sherry and oak.

My mouth is watering already, let's dive in.

Appearance: A thoroughly hazy golden-straw body capped by small bubbly white head that burns off quickly, leaving bare, patchy lacing.

Aroma: A mix of tart and sour citrus and golden fruit, vinegar, very mild green hops, pale malt, and some oak.

Taste: Like the aroma, it's a mix of sour fruit, mild vinegar, a hint of funk, oak, mild citrusy hops, and a solid backbone of grainy pale malt. Nothing from the alcohol. It's all balanced nicely, with all of the elements interacting positively. Mildly tart golden fruit, husky pale malt, and a little oak in the finish.

Mouthfeel: Medium-light bodied with medium carbonation and a drying and mildly puckering finish. No sign of the booze.

Drinkability: With the sourness, this drinks just a little slower than the alcohol content would suggest.

Verdict: Das Uberkind is a great little barrel-aged sour Saison that drinks perfectly. Mildly sour, this expertly toes the line between sour enough to be interesting and sour enough to drink slowly.

Grade: A- (4.2 out of 5 stars)

Note: These tasting notes are based on the 3rd batch of this beer when fresh.

Review by Christopher Hunt

Jester King Le Petit Prince Review

Brewery: Jester King Craft Brewery | Beer: Le Petit Prince
Style: Saison | ABV: 2.9% | IBUs: 30
Serving Method: 750ml bottle poured into tulip glass

One thing about Jester King is that they don't mind going small. It's not very often you see someone release a beer with less alcohol with a Bud Light in a 750ml bottle, but Jester King has a whole suite of them. Releasing premium session beers is one of their missions.

Le Petit Prince is the slightest of all of them, at a scant 2.9% ABV. Hearkening back to the days where water was suspect and beer was safe, this beer is styled int he manner of the light, hoppy, low alcohol table beers of the time.

It is unfiltered, unpasteurized, and 100% naturally conditioned. I'm going to go ahead and throw it into the somewhat catchall Saison style, like many other Jester King beers.

As for construction, the malt bill calls for two-row and wheat malt, with the hop bill consisting of Perle, Fuggle, and Czech Saaz. As per usual, fermentation duties are performed by farmhouse yeast and native yeast and souring bacteria from the local area.

Here's how the little prince is pitched:

This is a beer we've been excited about for quite some time now, as we believe that it's a clear, simple expression of the delicate, delightful interplay between noble hops and farmhouse yeast.

This should be interesting, let's head to le petit royal court and check it out.

Appearance: A thoroughly hazy lemon-hay body capped by two fingers of fluffy white head that fade in average time, leaving brilliant lacing.

Aroma: A mix of funky yeast, lemony and grassy hops, and sweet pale malt. It's not particularly intense, but well sorted.

Taste: Like the aroma, it's a light and airy mix of funky yeast and mildly bitter hops over a backbone of delicate sweet grainy malt. Everything is balanced perfectly, with an overall profile that is light in intensity but rich in character. Husky and sweet light malt and bitter green hops in the finish.

Mouthfeel: Medium-light bodied with crisp medium-high carbonation and a drying finish.

Drinkability: As expected given the aim and alcohol content, this drinks supremely easily.

Verdict: Living up to its stated purpose in full, Le Petit Prince is a pretty genius beer; it's light, delicate, masterfully balanced, thoroughly sessionable, and yet still full of character and enjoyable to the last sip. Another great Saison from Jester King that's true to the brand.

Grade: A- (4.3 out of 5 stars)

Note: These tasting notes are based on the 13th batch of this beer when fresh.

Review by Christopher Hunt

Jester King Black Metal Review (Farmhouse)

Brewery: Jester King Craft Brewery | Beer: Black Metal (Farmhouse)
Style: Russian Imperial Stout | ABV: 9.3% | IBUs: ~60
Serving Method: 750ml bottle poured into tulip glass

We just took a look back at the original Black Metal, one of Jester King's first releases. After a year or so, the original recipe of Black Metal gave way to this farmhouse version when Jester King switched over to their farmhouse yeast strain as part of their larger plan to develop into a proper authentic farmhouse-style brewery.

The same move was made with the other Jester King original lineup beers. While the brand moving to farmhouse style across the board matched with the original vision, I imagine the inherent risks of brewing the old recipes without risking contamination in a brewery filled with the new yeast also contributed to the decision.

Some bemoaned the loss of the original beers that established the brand, while others saw it as a necessary step in the larger journey of creating a very special kind of brewery right here in Texas. Looking at what Jester King have transformed themselves into today, the choice seems to have been a rather good one.

Jester King describe the finished farmhouse product as:

[A] cruel and punishing beer fermented by the sheer force of its awesome will. Black Metal is dry, roasty, and fermented with farmhouse yeast.

I absolutely loved the original formulation of Black Metal, so how will the transition to the farmhouse change things? Let's find out.

Appearance: A loud hiss as the cap is cracked (even louder than the old version). Pours a inky pitch black body that lets no light escape. Up top, well over three fingers (even more than the old version; almost a full hand) of fluffy and bubbly tan head featuring brilliant retention (though it burns out a little quicker than the old version) and patchy lacing.

Aroma: Dark fruit, leather, peppery spice, vinegar, chocolatey dark malt, and a good amount of booze (especially as it warms). A little more potent (though less boozy) than the version this replaces.

Taste: Up front, it's all about the leathery, chocolatey, coffee-like, licorice-like, nutty, earthy, smokey, and astringent malt. Dark fruit and mild citrusy hops fade in a little later, keeping everything balanced. There's a vinegary component running through it (though it's much less apparent than in the nose) that I'm not a fan of here. Bitter hops, roasty malt, leather, and mild booze in the finish.

Mouthfeel: Medium bodied and creamy with medium-high carbonation and a drying finish. Nice slickness and burn from the alcohol throughout (though a tad less than the old version).

Drinkability: Unsurprisingly still not a speedy beer, this drinks just about as you'd expect given the alcohol content and style.

Verdict: Farmhouse Black Metal keeps the homebrewed vibe of the old version alive, but it's not quite as charming here. The vinegary streak running through this just kind of ruins it (compared to the old version) for me. I'm not sure if this is all due to the recipe change, or if something else went wrong here. While this is a solid Imperial Stout, I sure wish it was possible to bring back the old metal!

Grade: B (3.8 out of 5 stars)

Review by Christopher Hunt

Jester King Black Metal Review (Original)

Brewery: Jester King Craft Brewery | Beer: Black Metal (Original)
Style: Russian Imperial Stout | ABV: ~10.0% | IBUs: 60
Serving Method: 750ml bottle poured into tulip glass

Located on the outskirts of Austin, Jester King is the most exciting brewery in Texas today. "Dedicated to wild ales and spontaneously fermented beers", they have a fascinating deep portfolio of farmhouse style beers that run the gamut from delicate fruit sours to bruising wild-hearted stouts.

Black Metal was Jester King's first beer to be bottled way back in 2011, before Jester King meant wild yeast brews. An Imperial Stout designed as their Winter seasonal, Black Metal is the beer that put Jester King on the map for many people.

Here's how they described the beer:

Pitch black with huge notes of chocolate, roast, coffee, burnt malt and alcohol balanced by aggressive hop bitterness.

After a year or so, this original version was supplanted by a new farmhouse version as Jester King evolved into the farmhouse charmer it is today. Bottles of the original formulation are still sought out today.

Let's hop in the time machine and visit the metal of old, shall we?

Appearance: A loud hiss as the cap is cracked. Pours a inky pitch black body that lets no light escape. Up top, well over three fingers of fluffy and bubbly tan head featuring brilliant retention and patchy lacing.

Aroma: Vinious dark fruit, ripe banana, chalky and roasty dark malt, and a lot of booze (even more as it warms).

Taste: Lots of chocolatey, coffee-like, licorice-like, nutty, smokey, and astringent dark malt up front. Vinious dark fruit and citrusy hops showing up a little later to keep everything balanced. Lots of spicy booze throughout. Bitter hops, roasty malt, and spicy booze in the finish.

Mouthfeel: Medium-full bodied and creamy with medium-high carbonation and a drying finish. Nice slickness and warmth from the alcohol throughout.

Drinkability: Hardly a speedy drinker, but it drinks faster than the double-digit alcohol would suggest (given you aren't shut down by a little burn).

Verdict: Black Metal is an enjoyable Imperial Stout and it's great to see more big beers coming from right here in Texas. At the end of the day though, this feels just a little homebrewed (not necessarily a bad thing) and not quite dialed in. Looking forward to seeing how this matures; maybe everything is going to come together in time as it mellows. Compared to the Farmhouse version that supplanted this brew, I have to say I much prefer this recipe; Jester King giveth and Jester King taketh away. Hopefully I can hold on to the case I've squirreled away for a while.

Grade: A- (4.1 out of 5 stars)

Note: While this review is being published in 2014, the tasting notes contained within were taken when the beer was fresh in 2011.

Review by Christopher Hunt

Landmark Decision in Texas Beer: Jester King vs. TABC

Public Enemy #1 for Texas Beer Geeks

It may come as somewhat of a surprise, but Texas alcohol laws are slightly out-of-date and, in many cases, absolute bollocks. Shocking news to all, I'm sure.

Case in point: in Texas, it has been against state code that any beer over 4% ABW (~5.1% ABV) must labeled as an "ale," even if it is a lager. Furthermore, the term "beer" is reserved for those beers 4% ABW and under.

Therefore, as a brewer, you'd have to call your new Imperial Pilsener an "ale" on the label if you plan to sell it on shelves in the Lone Star State. Also, your new your 7% ABV IPA could not have the word "beer" anywhere on the label. A real pain in the neck for brewers, and one that has resulted in many beers not making it to Texas and many labels having to be redesigned for compliance with Texas state code, not to mention plenty of confusion for Texas consumers.

Another great little restriction is the law stating that breweries cannot tell consumers where to find their products in Texas. Check out the Dogfish Head "fish finder" to see a great example.

The much maligned Texas Alcoholic beverage Commission (TABC) is responsible for these restrictions (and others like them), making it public enemy number one for many Texas beer fans. Until today.

Instant Texas Beer Folk Heroes

You see, a scrappy upstart brewery from Austin, Jester King, decided they'd like to call their beers what  they are on their labels, and maybe even tell their fans where to find their beers. They filed a suit against TABC earlier this year claiming the restrictions above (along with some others) were unconstitutional. Yesterday, Judge Sam Sparks ruled in favor of many of Jester King's claims in a landmark decision.

Here are the key outcomes of the case, as Scott Metzger from Freetail brewing reported on his blog Brewed and Never Battered:

• TABC cannot prohibit you from telling customers or advertising where they can buy your products.    

• TABC cannot require you to label your products by their definition of “beer” and “ale.”  

• TABC cannot prohibit you from advertising the strength of your products by prohibiting words like “strong”, “prewar strength”, “full strength”, etc.

All of this should help more beers make it to Texas and speed up the approval process for new beers to the market.

It's not all sunshine and lollipops though, as Judge Sparks upheld the law banning sales of beer at a brewery and the fact that out of state and foreign breweries still have to get costly licenses every two years. Not surprising, really. These are our next battles, fellow Texan beer geeks. Onward, to victory!

Read more about the ruling on Jester King's site or at Brewed and Never Battered.